Life through the photograph

Fashion photographers never seem to be given enough credit although most of the time theyr are the ones that will help propel a model to fame or make the not-so-affected-by-the-credit-crunch-women buy the weirdly wonderful Dior stilettos for the Summer season. Still, some photographers don't only concentrate on fashion, its models or silhouettes. They are also interested in the it-people's lives beyond the catwalk/stage/London party scene.The greatest and most fascinating example of all to me is Todd Selby, whose blog attracts thousands of people each and every day.
Honestly, nowadays, who never dreamt of entering the It-People's private lives? Tangle a part of the dream? Who never imagined what Erin Wasson's appartment or Alexander Wang's New York Studio looked like?! Thanks to Todd Selby, an American photographer, there's no need to imagine: Just look at his blog's pictures! Selby admits to being fascinated by the Rich and Famous private lives, he therefore made his dream come true by realising his voyeuristic wishes!
Most famous people fight constantly for the respect of their privacy against the paparazzis, trying against all odds to keep small parts of their every moves to themselves, but still, some didn't mind getting their work places, dogs, spouses and apartments photographed...For some time now, Todd Selby, artist, illustrator and it-photographer, whose work for Dazed and Confused, Another Magazine and the New York Magazine is acknowledged around the fashion world is now concentrating on convincing women and men who are part of the Hype-World to reveal a part of their day-to-day life to him (and his lenses). He started photographing friends, then acquaintances, and he is now concentrating his professional connections...Once they're convinced and attracted by the photographer's ideas, Selby gets involved in their everyday lives, therefore capturing very intimate places or familiar details (ashtrays full of cigarettes, toilets (!), dishes...), he then sometimes draws their profiles in watercolours and discusses with them in great length in order for his pictures to always get an unpublished portrait of them and their surroundings.
The result is always is bluffing, it's a mix between an interior design magazine and artistic trials. These "adventures" in the heart od these stylists, graphists, models, photographers, editors in chief or actor's intimacies are wonderfully natural but also intense and truthful (and also full of decorating ideas!). Nothing seems forced nor organised. Selby photographs in a raw state, with an unfiltered look and therefore enables the settings to be anything but set in stone.
Selby has been posting these urban neo-reports since June 2008 on his blog "The Selby", which caused a huge buzz in the fashion world and opened more and more doors in untidy apartments.
Little by little, he even reveals the interiors of some work places. Thanks to him we are able to discover Alexander Wang caught in his showroom or Marvin Jarrett, Nylon Magazine's Editor in Chief skateboarding in his office.
Todd Selby's fresh, spontaneous and very trendy work is attracting more and more attention. Even famous Frenchies (Frédéric Beigbeder, Christian Louboutin) dare opening their homes to him. His blog should be looked at daily in order to understand that a beautiful home is more than anything a lively place but also to satisfy our always growing curiosity in a smart and dinstinguished way we can be proud of. And of course, to stop having so many complexs about our books/clothes/CDs all over the floor: even the Hypest of all have the same problem!
Talking about Erin Wasson's skateboard rail is oh soEn Vogue, so go and have a look at the blog: http://www.theselby.com/

Ditto knows good Fashion

Living with 2 girls studying Fashion Management and Marketing, I have to keep up-to-date with the fashion business to understand what they sometimes talk about. What I remember clearly, is them having to propose a strategy for Evans, the "plus size clothing" shop as their marketing strategy is considered as very weak and unsuccessful. Well, it was the case last winter but it seems they've found a way to win back the hearts of curvy women: Beth Ditto, the controversial singer of American band The Gossip.
After a few years of not-so-much-media-coverage, Miss Ditto is back in the limelight. After having refused Topshop's offer to design clothes for them (the reason: Topshop doesn't design clothes in her size), she has agreed to be Evans's stylist for their upcoming Summer 09' collection.
Beth Ditto was seen on the cover of LOVE , but also it seems, on each and every front row (of the Very Important Designers) of the latest French Fashion Week's catwalks and as Fendi's private club Dendi O's guest star. Beth Ditto: 2009's It-Girl.
The deliciously disturbing young woman has managed to seduce the Fashion World by revealing herself lately as ultra-feminine although being far from being a size 0. After Lily Allen or Amy Winehouse, the singer is offering the ultra elitist fashion sphere the possibility to change her beauty criterias. Even if she won't make adolescents (girls and boys) fantasise, Karl Lagerfeld's will to have her at the Fendi party emphasizes the ultra-charismatic and oh-so confortable in her own skin Ditto ventures in the fashion jungle without being scared of the opinions of conformist others.
Being fashion's favourite (at the moment)hasn't made her forget her cheekiness and feminist convictions, therefore designing for Topshop is a no-no but for Evans, with clothes up to size 60 she joifully accepted. From July onwards, her 80s inspired clothes, maxi rock and roll t-shirts, draped dresses, oversized jumpers and retro accessories will appear in Evans's very conventional windows and racks. Still, let's not kid ourselves, Miss Dito is no designer, and was helped by Evans's stylist, Lisa Marie Peacock. Less glamour than designing for Topshop, but so much more symbolic, the Evans-Beth Ditto double act proves that even though she's in the heart of the show business, she won't disown herself for such. Which is good news for those who have even seen Lily Allen lose her curviness but still love theirs!

Mastering Fashion and Lifestyle Journalism

I first saw Epsom on the 15th of September, it was a Sunday. I hate Sundays and this one was no exception. Saying goodbye to my friends and family in sunny South of France was a new step in my life. I was crying when I was welcomed by a chatty, friendly Greek girl (she is now my crazy but oh so Perfect friend here) at the student accomodations. She said she was in the same state when she arrived a few days ago but that she already loved it here. 'Great' I think. Until I meet an MA student from the previous year who tells us that we will have no social life this year, that it will only be work work work and it will not be easy. Oh no, the tears are back again.What I can honestly say today is that the tears never came back. Well, at least they were never a consequence of my being here.

After graduating from a B.A in language with an emphasis on business and management, I took a year off to decide what I wanted to do with my life. What I already knew was that I wanted to live in England. Location? ticked. I have always been an avid reader of fashion magazines, turning the floor of my room into a Vogue carpet. I started looking for MAs in Fashion Journalism, and the one at UCA was the first one I found and the only one I wanted to go to. The course description was my idea of Heaven, and 6 months on, it still is.
A few months after receiving my "we are pleased to make you an offer" letter from the UCA in Epsom, I am being introduced to our course teachers, journalists at I.D, The Guardian, NME, or latest of all, Katie Grand's latest fabulous creation, LOVE magazine. Not only do I take great pride in telling my friends "Why don't you read this article, it's great. Oh, and, by the way, my teacher wrote it" but it is also a huge privilege to work with people whose work you admire and who inspire you. I say "work with" because not once were we looked at or considered as Fashion Journalism students. No. We are considered as "Freelance Journalists" in the making.
We are very few studying for this MA which has brought us girls (yes, girls. Lots of girls at UCA!) very close, as close as going to Paris for a few days to go to Les Arts Décoratif's exhition on Sonia Rykiel or the David Lachapelle one but we also help each other write our articles, exchange our rather expensive fashion magazines while sitting at Starbucks at least once a week. The UCA has enable me to meet people from different countries and backgrounds but fuelled by the same love for fashion and this has enriched my knowledge in the best way possible.

Of course, at Master level the amount of work is sometimes overwhelming and you do have to spend some weekends working and writing but when you know that research includes reading Vogue, how can you complain? Even when reading Fashion History or writing essays on Fashion Theory I feel happy and blessed to be able to study something I am so passionate about. Sharing this passion with my Epsom friends and teachers who are genuinely interested in our work as much as our lives is beyond rewarding and I couldn't imagine my life anywhere else now.
I don't know where this MA will take me, London or Paris? Magazine or Blog? But when the going gets tough (and the lack of money forces me to eat Baked Beans. Oh the joys of British food) and the anxieties about my future flood my mind I am very quickly brought back to reality: I am oh so lucky to be here for the time being. Carpe Diem.

Here's the link to the Postgraduate Courses at the different UCAs in England:
http://www.ucreative.ac.uk/index.cfm?articleid=8950

Renaissance of the 2.55

Let's make this a special Chanel week, especially after seeing those amazing Chanel bags on the catwalk!
Karl Lagerfeld had already shown us how keen he is on making a diversion of unusual bags and objects. After the gun-heeled stilettos, the bags with an electronic bracelet or even the Chanel guitare case, the fashion designer has now made a new (and surprising) version of the classic and mythical 2.55 ...
In Lagerfeld's mind, the Chanel woman seems to be a working one, often in a hurry and in a quest for time. A Blackberry in hand and stilettos on her feet don't really help and designers should be able to design more practical and up-to-date accessories and more than anything: practical! After seeing the bags on the Chanel runway for the Autumn/Winter 09/10' season, it seems like Cambon street's maestro has heard the needs women as the new bag can very easily contain all her necessary essential in order to be a day-to-day stylish 21st century woman!
Lagerfeld's goal was to enable her to find her lipstick in less than 10 seconds and without having to empty her whold bag in order to find it. To design this bag, he specified all the essential accessories women put in a handbag: ipod, make-up, perfume, sunglasses and consequently fit them between two plexiglas panes.
A handbag's practicality is undeniable but the aesthetic side has to be treated with serious attention. Indeed, even if a bag's main goal is packaging, it plays an essential part in the allure of the woman who carries it. Therefore, it seems only natural that the 2.55 be part of this neo-briefcase as a relic accessory...
Still, the concept can only be on the catwalk, this "imaginery" bag will most probably never be commercialised as the bag - look closely and you will see the earphones are sellotaped to the bag- is only a prototype. But whatever, it shouldn't be a problem as rumour has it that the "it-bag era" is over as they are progressively disappearing from the catwalk.
Still, for all Chanel-lovers who want to renew their 2.55, you can still opt for the new version from the same catwalk (commercialised this time!): a mini satchel for exemplary student. Any enthusiasts?

Allure, Chanel

Audrey Tautou, the famous Amelie out of the movie is now playing the young Gabrielle Chanel, known in the whole world as Coco Chanel. As France celebrates one of her most famous Fashion designer, there goes the story...

The making of Coco into Chanel started after the 2nd World War. Men were sent far away from their homes, which forced women to replace them in factories, offices and hospitals. It also forced them to wear practical clothes rather than ornamental ones.
Chanel, at her 31 Rue Cambon Atelier and Boutique in Paris, dressed all women arriving in the French capital, from women wanting a simple but chic silhouette, to women into sports looking for a swimming costume. Her goal wasn't only to "sculpt" women, or make them wear their lovers' ties or lavallieres, it was to make them walk with their head high, to give them autonomy and pride by wearing her clothes.
Before the war, women were men's mounts, his favourite conquest, but Chanel gave women a reason to parade and men had to see if they had the strength and courage to follow this new type of woman or not and thererefore be forced to only admire her as she passed by on the street.

Style, but also simplicity and rigour: Chanel was brought up in a strict and loveless environment which consequently made her love clothes with monastic cuts, dark colours such as brown, beige and charcoal, that reminded her of nature. The famous LBD she created in 1926 was a simple sheath dress that was made of Chinese veil. It hid women's chests, hips and thighs and was therefore practical at any occasion. It was therefore compared to the Ford: both could go anywhere!

Chanel wanted to see her clothes worn on the street, running and hopping on buses, not only parading in town houses of the 16th borough of Paris. Her 15 of inactivity because of the war (and her supposed relationship with a nazi officer) didn't change anything or alter her success. Free women, strong, autonomous and impatient to play a role in the 50s, 60s and later on came to buy clothes at the Chanel Boutique. From Jersey to Tweed, she didn't only luxurious makes but her creations werestill excellent. Chanel was very proud of making these materials fashionable and as time went by she rejected the ephemeral side of fashion.

Nothing was spontaneous in the clothes she made, it could take days or even weeks for her to make the woman's suit she had in mind. All this "building" was a second nature, just as her suit was a second skin.
Even when the miniskirt and 68 made Chanel a part of the past, the 80s, with their love of sequin and brands brought her back to the limielight. Just not right in time. YSL did his best to honour her and keep the spirit of her house alive after her death in 1971. Chanel's hardness and stringency were part of a different era and bling-bling would have driven her crazy. Still, nowadays, it is precisely this kind of sobriety that could come back on the fashion scene (thank you economic crisis). Rather than have numerous disposable outfits, we will all call for modernity less perishable, an outfit that can survive season after season. A new Chanel could impose itself in the name of authenticity and rigour.

Trendy Academy

A-list women are already sporting next summer's new trends on the red carpet or in the street, here's a list of the must have of the 2009 Summer!

The mini sequin dress
A financial crisis shouldn't deprive anyone from shining! On the contrary, here's to us women looking at a bright future ahead! Without any accessory in order not to kill the look, Jennifer Connelly is the best example here






The Bright red (oversized) bag
After a very long reign for the black accessory, bright colours are back on bags and red is the new hit to be worn. To be worn with black and NOT with a red skirt or coat! Katies Holmes got the look right












Black Denim
True, white and torn jeans are the winners of next summer but all the Very Important People were already wearing them last summer. In order to change, black denim is slowly(re-)becoming their favourite. It shouldn't stay too simple and basic and has to be brightened up with oversized and colourdul accessories.
Kate Moss got the look right (does she ever get it wrong?!) with this zipped pair of black jeans










Shoulder pads
Who said "The Dinasty look, never again"? 80s shoulder pads are making a dazzling come-back. Balmain, Maison Martin Margiela and Emporio Armani had shoulder pads all over their catwalks and now we all have to forget that we could easily look like an American Footballer and not overdo it with a "starwars look"!
Here, Keira Knightley, a true Chanel Girl, gets the right look










The Feminine Smoking
Arleady there in 2008, Masculine/Feminine outfits are staying for another round. On the red carpet, the accessorised Smoking 100% Girly could replace the fishtail dress...Don't hesitate to have a looot of accessories, especially necklaces! Jennifer Aniston manages the right dose of man/woman/jewellery: classy!

Carine Roitfeld en Vogue

After "The devil wears Prada", we'll soon discover "The September Issue", a movie / documentary on America's Fashion's Pope: Anna Wintour. She's the most mediatised of all Vogue's editors thanks to her reputation or her controversial love for fur, still, Vogue's other editors also deserve some credit for making Vogue THE fashion Bible around the world. French Vogue can only be thankful to have such a talented and influential editor, Carine Roitfeld. She is starting to become as iconic as Anna Wintour, both are seen as the Holy Graal when theyr arive at Fashion Week's shows! Carine Roitfeld, though cannot be recognised thanks to a short Bob but thanks to her ultra straight lon hair and smoky eyes.
Carine Roitfeld has managed to keep her private life quite secret and unknown to the public, which cannot be said for Anna Wintour. The French editor therefore remains quite mysterious even though she quite often opens the doors fo French Vogue to journalists...Rumour has it that she is the strict opposite of Mrs Wintour and that American Fashionistas are very intrigued by her aura. Consequently, CNN has decided to follow the fascinating French woman during the A/W 09/10' Fashion Week.
The TV program will have 4 episodes, and will be aired from the 18th to the 24th of March on CNN. Us French Fashionistas can only pray that one of the French TV channels will buy the program as Mrs Roitfeld is not only an enigma to the Americans but to us French too...Who knows, England could also air it or follow Alexandra Shulman too! And how fabulous to be able to follow the Fashion tornado she seems to create everywhere she goes!

Milan Style Rocks

After a month of catwalk shows and Fashion Weeks throughout the world, it seems like a good idea to go and see what women are wearing on the street, rather than on the catwalk this time! Here's an insight to what Fashionistas were wearing for the latest of the Wordly reknown Fashion Weeks: Milan.
At first glance, Italian women's look during Milan Fashion Week seems more centrered on a dress code made of shiny fur and upscale accessories than anywhere else. Still, some of the silhouettes seem easy to recreate and adapt to each one of us. Between 2009's rock chic and casualness, here are the best of the looks.Thanks to Scott Shuman, aka The Sartorialist, any fashionista walking nearby a fashion show during Fashion Week can have her moment of fame, these women, all shot unexpectedly by the famous blogger shared a modern elegance, famously dear to Italy.
The boyfriend Current Elliot was overly present on the streets, even though the now famous pair of jeans is not a trend for everyone to wear. It needs to be worn with something smart in order to make the most of its grunge chic potential. Androginous and Sober but yet classy items should be associated to it when worn. The young woman wearing glazed-black high-heeled pump shoes, a blazer and a licorice coloured shirt got it all right! The cap here adds to the hybrid look.
Another contentious point: the carrot trousers. Those who manage to pull it off seem to disappear progressively even though it is very simple and can easily give any woman a Coco Chanel appearance. Keep it simple with a plain t-shirt, under a tailored jacket. Heels give the final touch to this it-look of the moment.
And the blue-and-black look, despite being overly present this winter is not getting old. In order to fashionise a Stella McCartney blue t-shirt, wear it with black for the ultimate and much talked about look: Rock Chic. Grungy effect secured. Worn under a long blazer with a pair of skinny jeans, it'll rationalise what could be seen as a post-teenage look. The association blue dress/black blazer or leather jacket gives a special and much appreciated feel to a silhouette.
Balmain's Power shoulders were also part of the street-show but not all of us can afford the designer's jacket. Still, it's amazing to see how one item can transform a casual silhouette into a fashion killer Victoria Beckham or Gwyneth Paltrow both love at the moment. Anyone of us will love the power kick the it-piece can give!

London Fashion Week round-up

A little round-up of the shows that took place in London for the Autumn/ Winter 09-10' collections!
As Gareth Pugh left the London fashion scene, he seems to have taken the stylish expansivness that seemed to distinguish the British fashion Week. Still, even if the shows seem less experimental, the silhouettes are more delicate and wearable, therefore giving the shows a very convincing sense of maturity...
It is often somehow easier to sum up the trends of the New York or Milan Fashion Weeks than the London one as individuality is very strong on British soil. The noughties were again very present (maybe too present?), but so were floral and prints. It is easier to analyse the London Fashion Week in terms of shows rather than transverse details!
Firstly, Christopher Kane's choice of less experimental looks, without losing an inch of talent, was a very respectable one. At Luella, slightly acid women's suits have given way to army ensembles that manage to flirt with the designer's girly touches she cherishes. The tandem Eley/Kishomoto payed tribute to air hostesses by offering them a 70s retro elegance allure.

Then, Charles Anastase replaced his Summery Lolitas with their ballerinas' silhouettes with a group of young trashy and roots looking girls. The young fashion designer wanted to celebrate the influence the 90s had on him during his teenage years. Rayanne Graff and many other unknown grunge-celebrities were therefore celebrated. The result may seem uneven but some silhouettes, such as the one in purple washed-out denim or the ones mixing light pink with rock and roll accessories, still stand out and manage to shine thanks to artisticly beautiful mix and match.
Talking about unusual associations which were nevertheless an aetheticall success, Peter Jensen deserves to be on the highest step of the podium. His multi-coloured looks payed homage to Scandinavian countries and details were also taken from the Northern countries' folklore. Ensembles are put together without taking into account the prints on them, when accesorising (Organza mini-capes, tassel hoods, or lamé gloves) seems to have been decided by a mischievous little girl. His silhouettes gave a breath of fresh air to the catwalk with their cheerful and inventive looks.
Last but not least, Richard Nicoll, whose collection was entirely inspired by the world of lingerie drew an ultra-chic and architectural collection, which clearly could have strutted down the Milanese catwalks...