lundi 2 mars 2009

London Fashion Week round-up

A little round-up of the shows that took place in London for the Autumn/ Winter 09-10' collections!
As Gareth Pugh left the London fashion scene, he seems to have taken the stylish expansivness that seemed to distinguish the British fashion Week. Still, even if the shows seem less experimental, the silhouettes are more delicate and wearable, therefore giving the shows a very convincing sense of maturity...
It is often somehow easier to sum up the trends of the New York or Milan Fashion Weeks than the London one as individuality is very strong on British soil. The noughties were again very present (maybe too present?), but so were floral and prints. It is easier to analyse the London Fashion Week in terms of shows rather than transverse details!
Firstly, Christopher Kane's choice of less experimental looks, without losing an inch of talent, was a very respectable one. At Luella, slightly acid women's suits have given way to army ensembles that manage to flirt with the designer's girly touches she cherishes. The tandem Eley/Kishomoto payed tribute to air hostesses by offering them a 70s retro elegance allure.

Then, Charles Anastase replaced his Summery Lolitas with their ballerinas' silhouettes with a group of young trashy and roots looking girls. The young fashion designer wanted to celebrate the influence the 90s had on him during his teenage years. Rayanne Graff and many other unknown grunge-celebrities were therefore celebrated. The result may seem uneven but some silhouettes, such as the one in purple washed-out denim or the ones mixing light pink with rock and roll accessories, still stand out and manage to shine thanks to artisticly beautiful mix and match.
Talking about unusual associations which were nevertheless an aetheticall success, Peter Jensen deserves to be on the highest step of the podium. His multi-coloured looks payed homage to Scandinavian countries and details were also taken from the Northern countries' folklore. Ensembles are put together without taking into account the prints on them, when accesorising (Organza mini-capes, tassel hoods, or lamé gloves) seems to have been decided by a mischievous little girl. His silhouettes gave a breath of fresh air to the catwalk with their cheerful and inventive looks.
Last but not least, Richard Nicoll, whose collection was entirely inspired by the world of lingerie drew an ultra-chic and architectural collection, which clearly could have strutted down the Milanese catwalks...

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